Hitting the Slopes:
Slavic Dolls of Desire
The standards were high, and so were they.
Slavic “dolls” or models from Eastern Europe and the Slavic region, are high fashion models that came to fame in the 1990s and 2000s. These “dolls” were polished but fragile. With the most petite frames in the industry, some of these models engaged in behavior with no limits.
Tiny figures, big impact
The fall of the Iron Curtain opened a wardrobe for models in post-Soviet countries. The unique beauty of girls from this region caught the eye of agencies, even if it was because of the conditions of the country that led to malnourished women. High cheekbones, porcelain skin, and piercing eyes are timeless and otherworldly. Major modeling agencies like–
Elite, IMG, and Next scouted extensively in Slavic countries after recognizing the unique beauty and work ethic of models from the region. The fashion industry in the 90s and 2000s was looking for globalization, and this provided that. Likewise, designers were demanding for models that fit their artistic vision.
Frosted Features, Fiery Careers
Snejana Onopka
Snejana Onopka is a Ukrainian model who was scouted by a foreign scout in Kyiv at 15. After being photographed by Steven Meisel for the Prada campaign and two covers of Vogue Italy, she was a known face in fashion. In September 2006, Onopka was mentioned in the New York Times article, "When Is Thin Too Thin?" along with fellow models Natasha Poly and Hana Soukupová.
Natasha Poly
Poly is a Russian model who has appeared in high-fashion ad campaigns, magazine covers and on runways. After modeling locally for a few years, 2004 would prove to be her year - she walked in 54 fashion shows in Milan, Paris and New York City, and modelled for the cover of Vogue Paris twice consecutively.
Vlada Roslyakova
Born in the Siberian region of Russia, Vlada Roslyakova belongs to the “wide-eyed doll” era of runway. In 2005, Roslyakova landed her first Vogue cover with Vogue France, which later named her one of the top models of the 2000s. During her second season on the runway, which was Fall/Winter 2005, Roslyakova walked in 78 shows during the ready-to-wear season, including all the major fashion weeks.
Porcelain Facades
This was an intersection of culture and heritage, and they made an iconic mark on the runway with the dark side of beauty, obsession and perfection. Most of these models' breakfast consisted of a cup of black coffee and cigarettes. In order to meet these extreme standards of this modeling world, there was immense pressure to stay thin and began a toxic cycle of extreme dieting and drug use. “Coke walks” were coined by this time in modeling, but uncovered the dark underbelly of substance abuse. Used as a stimulant or appetite suppressant, this culture fostered an environment of “skiing” backstage. This also could have been a coping mechanism for the grueling schedules, loneliness in a distant country, and high-stakes nature of the industry.
The fantasy of these models also involved exploitation from their agencies: financial manipulation for the lack of knowledge of the U.S. dollar, human trafficking concerns and neglect of mental health. While fashion still struggles with fair treatment of models, the dark side of modeling during the early 2000s continues to serve as a cautionary tale. It’s high fashion!
In trend-driven media, we see terms like “slavic dolls” and “brazilian bombshells”, which not only highlights the dichotomy of 90s and 2000s modeling, but in this toxic environment of competition, women should not be pinned against each other.
Photo Caption: Photos taken from outside sources.
Written by
Kylie Caldwell