LOVE ALL
Americas Affair
with Tennis
The fashion revolution in which the 19th century English sport becomes overruled by a burgeoning nation, God Bless America.
The modern fashion zeitgeist is littered with tennis’ influence and iconography, even movies and popculture trends capitalize on the sport’s clean lines and historic traditions. The current prominence of ‘tennis core’ in large part thanks to the American obsession with tennis culture and its inherent influence over cultural movements. Tennis is loved the world round, but, despite not being the originator, America has adopted Tennis’ wardrobe as its own and American icons are driving its fashion evolution.
Five decades prior to Serena’s retirement, perhaps the singular most significant fashion event in tennis also occurred at the US Open. Christine Evert was a dominant American player and now legend, who also happened to have a penchant for diamonds. Renowned as the “Ice Maiden” for her calm, collected exterior on court, Evert was a fearsome opponent to all who played her. Always, she wore diamond jewlery for matches, the crowning jewels to her ‘icy’ persona. During a soon to be fateful match in 1978, Evert showed an uncharacteristic moment of alarm as play was halted so everyone could look for the bracelet that had flung off her wrist.
Evert recalls from that day, “the green court, the white lines, the dripping sweat of competition, and MY diamond bracelet.”
Publications covering the incident coined her troublesome accessory as a “tennis bracelet.” From then on the name stuck, and the thin, diamond-lined style became known as the tennis bracelet; Forevermore, the jewelry industry had been changed.
The high involvement of fashion within the sport is no coincidence, as it is actually intertwined with the sport’s creation. Females were first allowed to play racquet games with the introduction of Lawn Tennis in 1870, which allowed women to play whilst still dressed in 19th century garb. Tennis then traveled to America in 1887, where it caught like fire, reaching all corners of the country before the 1890s. The opportunity to wear a fashionable dress on a lawn in front of spectators was an alluring quality that enticed manyto join in the lawn tennis fad. However, the original exercise costumes were quite constricting.
The US Open, America’s grand slam tournament, is known to be a stage where players compete in outfits that create lasting impact. Hundreds of diamonds danced as Serena Williams took her final spin in Arthur Ashe stadium in August of 2022. Since signing with Nike in 2003, Serena made the tennis courts her runway with none so special as her appearances on the Open’s center court. It’s here she has sported custom Nike, Virgil Abloh designs, and Swarovski crystals. Serena is more than just a player who pushed the envelope for tennis, she is in her own right a fashion icon. Many fashion moments of hers will be remembered throughout the years: the Cameroon kit, the jean skirt, the French Open catsuit. Through her match attire she conveyed the passion and personality she brought to the sport. Serena blazed a trail not just as a powerhouse athlete, but also as a star that got audiences excited to watch what players wear.
As When the Girls Came Out to Play: The Birth of American Sportswear puts it, “Never mind: the women were not expected to actually run for the ball.”
It took many years of female players, like May Sutton, pushing boundaries before female players could dress in any semblance of athletic wear. Sixteen year old Sutton dared to defy the traditional dress code in 1905 by competing with a shorter than acceptable hemline at the prestigious Wimbledon club. The result: she won and became the first American ever to achieve a singles title at Wimbledon. Where we first see tennis fashion take on the form that it is known for today is in the 1930s. At this point, private athletic costumes merge with public sports uniforms, and create the silhouette of today’s tennis dresses that are so well loved. It’s a true testament to the sport’s tradition and fashion taste that even now powerful women continue to play in skirts.
One of the greatest attributes of tennis is that it's loved and recognized worldwide as a fashionable sport. Despite its international acclaim, however, there’s an undeniable connection between the American tennis community and fashion makers. Our young country has made its mark on the sport and will continue singing tennis’ praises as it drives the sport into future fashion endeavors.
Written by
Molly Waters